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Tourism in Nariño — Pasto, La Cocha Lagoon and Blacks and Whites Carnival

Tourism guide to Nariño: Pasto, La Cocha Lagoon, Las Lajas Sanctuary, Galeras volcano, Tumaco and the UNESCO Blacks and Whites Carnival.

Tourism in Nariño — Pasto, La Cocha Lagoon and Blacks and Whites Carnival

Nariño is the southwestern department of Colombia where the Andes meet the Pacific, a territory of active volcanoes, Andean lagoons, frailejón páramos and one of the most unique festivities in the world: the Blacks and Whites Carnival in Pasto, declared UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2009. Its capital, Pasto, sits at the foot of the Galeras volcano (4,276 meters), the most active volcano in Colombia and one of the 16 most dangerous in the world.

Nariño has 64 municipalities and a cultural identity deeply rooted in Andean and indigenous traditions of the Pastos, Quillasingas and Awá peoples. The Las Lajas Sanctuary —a neo-Gothic basilica built inside a canyon of the Guáitara River— is the most visited monument in the department. La Cocha lagoon (Ramsar 2000) is the second largest lagoon in Colombia and one of the most beautiful páramo ecosystems in the southern Andes.

Main Tourist Attractions

AttractionTypeDescription
Our Lady of Las Lajas SanctuaryReligious / HeritageNeo-Gothic basilica built between 1916 and 1949 inside the Guáitara River canyon, on the border with Ecuador. Considered by many the most beautiful church in Latin America. The image of the Virgin miraculously appeared on the living rock in 1754. Receives millions of pilgrims per year. 7 km from Ipiales.
La Cocha LagoonNature / EcotourismThe second largest lagoon in Colombia (16 km², 2,830 meters above sea level). Ramsar Site 2000. Emerald waters surrounded by cloud forest. La Corota Island (nature reserve) in the center of the lagoon. Trout fishing, boat rides and bird watching of unique southern Andean species.
Galeras VolcanoHigh Mountain / AdventureThe most active volcano in Colombia (4,276 meters), visible from Pasto. Trekking on the northern flank (with National Parks permit, when not on eruptive alert). The active crater, sulfur fumaroles and the view over Pasto and Ecuador are spectacular.
Pasto — Andean CityCity / CultureCapital at 2,527 meters above sea level among Andean hills. Colonial historic center, Pasto Cathedral, the tradition of Pasto varnish (vegetable lacquer made from mopa-mopa tree resin applied to wood, a pre-Columbian indigenous technique) and carnival crafts workshops.
Blacks and Whites CarnivalCulture / FestivityJanuary 4-6. Day of the Blacks (Jan 5) everyone paints themselves black in solidarity with freed slaves. Day of the Whites (Jan 6) they throw white talcum powder. Giant papier-mâché floats with allegories up to 15 meters high. UNESCO Heritage 2009.
Tumaco — Southern PacificBeach / CultureThe capital of the Nariño Pacific, a coastal city with black sand beaches, mangroves, unique Afro-Colombian cuisine and the largest port on the Colombian Pacific. Afro-Colombian culture and its musical traditions (marimba, chirimía) define Tumaco's identity.
Ipiales and Border with EcuadorCity / Culture2 km from the Rumichaca international bridge —the main Colombia-Ecuador border crossing— Ipiales has the Multiethnic Market where crafts, textiles and Ecuadorian and Colombian products are sold. The binational economy makes Ipiales a unique exchange point.

Typical Cuisine

Nariño cuisine is Andean and high-altitude. Roast guinea pig (charcoal-grilled with potato and chili) is the most iconic dish of southern Colombia, inherited from pre-Hispanic Andean cooking. Quinoa soup, indios (corn tamales stuffed with meat and rice), roasted corn on the cob with white cheese, corn champús, Nariño anise-flavored aguardiente (different from Antioquia's) and milk and panela sweets from Buesaco are must-tries. In Tumaco: crab encocado and rice with shrimp in coconut milk.

Adventure and Outdoor Activities

Trekking to Galeras volcano (when on green alert), rafting in the Guáitara canyon near Las Lajas, kayaking on La Cocha lagoon, bird watching for endemic southern Andean species (the Las Lajas tanager, Andean toucan) and hiking in Pacific humid forest near Tumaco complete the adventure offering.

How to Get There

Pasto has Antonio Nariño Airport (PSO) in Chachagüí, 35 km from Pasto, with flights from Bogotá (1 hour 20 minutes) and Medellín (1 hour 10 minutes). Tumaco has La Florida Airport (TCO) with flights from Cali (45 minutes). From Pasto to Ipiales: 1.5 hours by bus. To La Cocha lagoon: shared vans from Pasto (1 hour). During Carnival (Jan 4-6): book flights weeks in advance.

Where to Stay

In Pasto: 3-4 star hotels downtown. In Ipiales (near Las Lajas): 2-3 star hotels. At La Cocha: lakeside cabins and rural lodges in El Encano. In Tumaco: 2-3 star hotels. Blacks and Whites Carnival: book 2-3 months in advance, the city fills up.

Festivities and Events

Pasto Blacks and Whites Carnival (Jan 4-6, UNESCO Heritage), Nariño Colonies Fair in Pasto (July), Petronio Álvarez Pacific Music Festival in Cali (August, also representing Nariño), Pilgrimage to Las Lajas Sanctuary (Holy Week and September 15).

Also check the climate of Nariño, the list of municipalities of Nariño and the complete guide to Colombian festivities.

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